Friday, February 12, 2010

Squash in Nut Sauce

Eating Raw in winter is difficult. The body craves carbs. About September, I start eating very heavy food (for me.) I anticipate the season and eat for the upcoming season. Right now, in Feb., I am eating more cleansing food. In late summer/fall, I double the amount of oil I eat and start eating roots and nuts. If I put on ten pounds, I'll easily lose it by Spring. I find it very hard to put on weight and am one of the few people who Brigitte Mars recommended for a diet high in fats. But be aware: I am 6 feet tall and 130 pounds. My son is 6'6" and 160 pounds and my father was 6'4" and 180 until he got old and went down to 150. I have a BMI of about 19 and very fine bones with short muscle body. My sister who has a large frame and much more muscle mass is heavier and must eat about twice what I do, being a jock.

From my mother, I inherited early onset arthritis. Most of my diet is for one reason: pain management. The other part of it is because I have trouble eating anything, so much trouble that I seriously wanted to just give up eating about ten years ago; eating was a nightmare for me and I grew to hate most food intensely, but I still craved it--a very bad dependent relationship. This diet gives me no pain and makes eating pleasant for me. I prefer it to drugs.

I also inherited all kinds of stomach problems from my father including a serious dairy allergy. I'm also allergic to the ENTIRE grain family, even sprouted grains. They aggravate my respiratory allergies and give me eye infections and asthma. This means corn syrup, sugar and also molasses, beer and almost all prepared food. Given that I also can't eat soy, most prepared food, especially vegan food is a no-go for me. I also have a very acidic stomach, so I can't eat pineapple and much in the way of fruits. I also have a serious citrus allergy and am allergic to coconut. The most common question I am asked is: "what do you eat?"

Most nuts and seeds irritate my stomach acid. I don't find them hard to digest, but the pain after eating them is sometimes pretty intense. However, I found that eating acidic nuts in pestos or in salads tended to balance their acidic nature. I also do this with meat. Unlike most raw people, I do eat small quantities of meat, mostly fish and shellfish.

This is a delightful dish that I developed over the years in the search for filling, non-dairy pestos for pasta. I had to give up pasta, but there are many, many substitutes for pasta you can experiment with. Some people dehydrate the "noodles" a little for an al dente texture; I don't have a dehydrator or the time to mess with this.

Winter squash can be delightful raw, it can also be horrid. Again, know your families. Squash comes in four families. The most popular is Cuccurbita pepo which includes common pumpkins, zucchini, all those funky summer squash, acorn squash and delicata. Delicata is delicious cooked, but pretty boring raw. Many pumpkins are pretty vile raw except for a few bites while carving jack o' lanterns.

Most of the squash available in the markets is C. pepo and I do not recommend any of it for eating raw. But you should taste it yourself; I find the texture does not appeal and they often have a very "pumpkin" taste that seems overpowering to me. The other down side of C. pepo is that they store well for about 3-4 months, but get dry and mealy. This is a great example of a lovely vegetable that cooks well and is not as great raw. After sampling other squashes for use as summer squash, I'm not even as sold on C. pepo in the form of zucchinis or yellow squash. But they are common in the grocery stores. Squash takes up a huge amount of space in the garden and are disease prone, so often buying them is a good option.

If you have a farmers' market, getting squash can be a more adventurous experience. One of the better squash families that is more common on the East Coast and in Asia is Curcurbita maxima which has some of the better summer squashes in the form of banana squash and some of the more spicy tasting winter squashes like the Japanese form of buttercup squash known as Kabocha which looks like this photo of some buttercup squash. must be cured correctly to have the sweet, spicy taste that makes it delectable raw. These squashes can be dry, tasteless and have huge seed cavities and almost no flesh by the time they hit the market. Again, they are a fabulous baking squash, but also good raw, unlike most of C. pepo. There are hundreds of varieties of squash, far, far too many to list here or evaluate in your own garden. The best place to "window shop" is Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, a new company that has more varieties of squash, melons and gourds than any other seed company out there. They are also extremely friendly and may be able to point you to good squashes to try to grow and eat raw. Kabocha is one of the best, but it is erratic in the stores. The smaller squashes tend to be dry and seedy, but if you get a good squash, it is spicy and wonderful raw, just by itself. Grated winter squash, if it is good, is also something kids will devour raw with relish.

The best family of the squashes for eating raw is Curcurbita moshata, more commonly found in the form of butternut squash. There are hundreds of varieties of this squash family. They usually have more meat than the other squashes. They vary quite a bit, but are usually darker orange in color.

Butternut is usually available in common grocery stores. Try to buy organic squash; the common crop is heavily sprayed. A good butternut squash will have a large neck and be reddish-tan without lesions on the skin. One of the great points of this squash is that it will keep until May, even June if you store it in a dry place at room temperature, not too hot.

Butternut is very sweet, too sweet to eat with honey or brown sugar. Try giving it to kids plain before grabbing the honey. It will keep for a week in the fridge, longer if you cut off any of the exposed flesh that may get moldy. It is usually very juicy and easy to grate. I grate everything by hand, so I love easy to grate. Avoid the squash that looks beautiful but has a lot of ridges--you lose too much flesh. Here is a Ukranian squash from this family, note again the smooth, red-tan skin and the bright orange flesh.

If you live in a climate hostile to squash, like where I lived in Florida (zone 10) it may be a challenge to get winter squash before disease and bugs do you in. A cure for powdery mildew is to spray the foliage with sour milk or sulfur solution BEFORE the onset of the disease. Once the plant gets it, it's too late. If you live in an area that gets powdery mildew, start spraying your squashes early. In Florida, I had a much better experience with growing gourds than with the Curcurbit family. Lagenaria is a bit bitter, but is very good as a zucchini substitute. There are also many winter squashes in the Benincasa family, called wax melons and native to SE Asia.

But on to the recipe. In the photo below, you can see the grated butternut squash. The color is vivid and appealing as a "noodle" substitute. It is juicy and sweet, but not as creamy or crunchy as noodles made of flour. I hesitate to call it a noodle substitute since is it just different.

There are as many different toppings for squash as there are cooks. You can try a tomato sauce with garlic, fresh tomatoes and basil, or an Asian sauce of five spices and tahini. This is one of my favorites, a creamy nut sauce that can be made with dill, tarragon, or basil. I also put dried nettles in all of these sauces; along with kelp, nettles are something I eat every day. I have thin blood and kelp and nettles are the best treatment for it. They also help with allergies and have made my hair and nails about twice as thick. I also use a mortar and pestle (no blenders at our house) so my pestos and sauces tend to be more chunky.

1 cup grated squash
1/2 cup soaked nuts (about 5 hours) walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts, etc. ground up into a creamy texture
1/4 cup basil chopped finely
1/4 cup parsley (For a greener pesto use 1 cup each. You can also add in other fresh greens, like dandelion, spinach, anything you like.)
1 tsp dried nettles powdered
1 tsp kelp granules
pinch sea salt
1/3 cup olive oil

Optional: garlic, raw cheese

Mash or blend together the ingredients for the sauce and put onto the squash. This is a creamy, heavy dish that will satisfy even the winter blues. Also keep in mind that I don't really like to cook. All these dishes take about 15 minutes to prepare at the most.

Bon Apetit!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Vegan Maki Rolls

One of my favorite dishes is a maki roll like you get in a sushi bar. I can't eat rice, so I have experimented over the years with trying to get a rice substitute for a roll. I tried sprouted grains mixed with avocado, and various mushed up sprouted grains, which did not work at all.

I tried then grated roots and veggies, like zucchini, which were also disasters. The key is that you need to grate up something very fine that is also on the dry side. Anything wet will make the nori sheets fall apart when you try to roll and cut the roll. Vegetables that work well are sweet potatoes/yams, and roots of the umbel family like carrots, parsnips and celeriac. I stopped using sweet potatoes because raw, they do have enzyme inhibitors although I find them fairly easy to digest. I do not eat dandelion roots or sunchokes because I find them hard to digest. You can mix some roots in with celeriac like a bit of radish if you want some punch, but radishes by themselves are too wet. Some winter squashes are dry enough, but often taste awful raw.

Here I have grated up some celeriac. Celeriac, or celery root, wins the contest as the ugliest veggie out there. Like celery, it's grown in mud and has roots all over it. It's also a veggie that you have to eat organic or grow yourself. It likes a lot of water, but is less sensitive than celery. If you cannot get it in the stores, use parsnips (like a white carrot or large radish) or even those old cooking carrots (the new ones are too juicy.) If you want to eat sushi (raw fish) I recommend using green papaya instead of roots; it will digest better.

The trick to a roll is not to use too much on it. Only cover half the sheet with celeriac, only about a 1/4 of an inch deep (less than a cm.) The finer you can grate your roots the better.

Put on some veggies. Try not to overdo it. I like avocado. Avocado is good with sweet peppers as you see here, or cucumbers. Do anything you can think of, get creative. I also like marinated shitake mushrooms (don't use most mushrooms raw). If you like, you can even use raw sushi-grade fish, but it's harder to digest with the carbs in the celeriac. You could also try a fruit maki roll, but be aware that anything too wet will wreck the roll.

It may take you a couple of times to get the hang of rolling the nori sheet. You must roll it as tight as you can. Have some water ready to wet about 1/2 an inch of the last of the sheet (at the top) so that you can seal the roll. The seaweed will stick to itself if you wet the sheet. Don't get it too wet and hold the roll over the seam for a minute, pressing it down onto your board.

To cut the roll demands a very sharp, clean knife. Clean the knife between cuts. Nori sheets have perforate guides on them, but it's easier to cut the roll once through the middle and then double it up and cut two at a time, into quarters and then into eights. Watch the sushi chefs do it. The ends of the roll will be a little messy like in the picture. You can fuss with it if you like.

Also experiment with sauces to go over the roll or to dip the roll in. You can sprinkle black sesame on top for an authentic look. Using colored radish or a bit of carrot makes the roll very colorful.

Sauces:

Traditional Sauce
Tamari
Roasted sesame oil
Vinegar
Wasabe root (or powder)

Raw Sauce
Lemon
Raw tahini
Dulse or Celtic salt
Fresh wasabe

Anne's Allergy sauce
Raw apple cider vinegar
Celtic Salt
Olive oil

This is great fun with kids. Enjoy!

Root Chakra Salad



Over the years, I've experimented with many salads. I get tire of cookbooks that put cheese on salads or treat them like side dishes. For me, a salad is just an interesting pile of veggies that taste good mixed together.

This salad has many variations. The key to some of food enjoyment is presentation, and what better way to present than to play with color! I call this salad "Root Chakra Salad" because it is a magenta salad which is the color of the first chakra. It is also the color of iron. If you feel anemic, this is a great salad to "perk" you up. It is also a warming salad for winter.

I've done this salad three ways. I'll list the ingredients for you and then the dressings. The first time I did it, I used red sauerkraut. Here is that recipe.

One small red cabbage (or half a large one) grated
1 tbs dill seed
1 tbs Celtic salt
1 tbs raw apple cider vinegar

Knead the cabbage and other ingredients, put into a jar (don't put a lid on it) wait a few days until the kraut has the taste you like. Some people get serious about kraut and pack it in a ceramic container all winter--I like it fairly fresh.

I then mix:

1 cup kraut
1 small beet, grated
lemon to taste
1 tsp honey
1 tsp dulse
1 tsp powdered nettles
1 tsp soaked black sesame seeds
1 tbs olive oil

A good variation on this salad is to use freshly grated red cabbage.

1 cup grated red cabbage
1 small beet, grated
1 tbs apple cider vinegar
1 tsp dulse
1 tsp powdered nettles
1 tsp dill seed (or caraway)
1 tsp soaked black sesame seeds (or soaked sunflower seeds)
1 tbs olive oil

You can also substitute (or add) red or purple kale, red lettuce, purple beet leaves, purple flowers, red celery, or other dark red or purple leaves. I don't usually mix beets with any kind of fruit, but elder berries taste good in this salad.

The salad above is:

1/2 cup grated red cabbage
1/2 cup red leaf lettuce
1/2 cup spinach
1 tsp apple cider vinegar (I can't eat lemon)
1 tsp powdered nettles
1 tsp dulse
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tbs olive oil
1 stalk celery

I find the beets sweet enough without honey, but honey makes this salad good enough for kids.

Enjoy!

Eating in Winter

In the West, it is possible to have greens all winter, even in the mountains. I gardened for a long time in Colorado and was pleased to have fresh greens even in January. There are a few tricks to this, but first, let me say, I have not gardened in the NE, but I recommend Eliot Coleman's book Winter Gardening for those who live there.

There are three factors when gardening overwinter. One is temperature, two is sunlight, and three is moisture. Plants cease to grow when temperatures are below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In most of the West, daytime temperatures, even in winter, are above this, but the factor that is worst in a grow box or a greenhouse in the West is that temperatures, even in winter will get too high, not too low.

In the West, with the exception of some of CA, OR and WA, BC and AK there is no problem with sunlight, but lack of sun (4 hours a day) will halt plant growth. The trick to low temperatures and low light is to grow your plants large enough so that they are held in REFRIGERATION all winter, grow when conditions are right, but are large enough by Hallowe'en that you can take some of the leaves and not strip the plant.

If you have snowfall or grow in boxes, but for much of the west, moisture is a real problem, especially in places with wind. Be aware of this and go ahead and water by hand even if the water freezes later. But I have been able to harvest greens even in dry, frozen soils as long as I left enough leaves on the plant so that it did not suffer when asked to grow again. Of course, you can strip the plant and kill it or take it up when you want to eat it. In the Northwest, be sure to space plants wide enough apart to keep down disease and mold caused by crowding in wet conditions.

Even if you do not have a garden, you can eat well if you grow in pots outside, or even if you have a good market. But this article is about winter greens.

In winter, lettuce prices vary quite a bit depending on weather conditions in California. If you grow your own lettuce, you can be free of what is happening to the Imperial Valley. There are many, many lettuces that do well, even when it is below freezing. This is a picture of "Winter Density" one of the romaine lettuces that does very well overwinter. Seed catalogs should tell you if a lettuce is good in winter; most are, but some take frost better than others. A good place to hunt up lettuces for winter is "Cook's Garden."

In winter, the brassicas are queens of the garden. All of the Asian crucifers such as Tatsoi here are meant to be planted in late summer or early autumn and harvested all winter. You will find that most mustards and kales are much milder in winter than when grown in spring. The list of crucifers is very long, and I won't go into here here. There are only a couple of things to be aware of. First off, crucifers will depress the thyroid. To compensate for this, eat seaweed. Even kelp salt or dulse flakes will give you enough iodine to compensate for a depressed thyroid. Although crucifers have a lot of vitamin K, they will also thin the blood, which can be a good or bad thing, but be aware of it. They are also extremely high in Vitamin A. Crucifers also vary as to how much mustard taste they have. I find raw broccoli too strong for my tastes, but mild kales and Asian mustards are easy to eat when mixed with other greens. Crucifers need alkaline soil, so if you have sour soil, be sure to give them calcium or some other mineral like gypsum to compensate. Also try the leaves of broccoli like Spigarello or radish leaves for a change.

Other biennials like spinach, chard and beet greens are also better in winter. Eating them raw helps with the oxalic acid, but if you are sensitive to oxalic acid, be aware that many greens have it, even kale, not just spinach. Better than growing spinach are the perennial goosefoots like Good King Henry or this perpetual spinach. They are hardier and will keep giving good greens well into spring. Spinach is one of the only seeds that will sprout at low temperatures.

But this article is mostly about eating greens that used to be popular and are hardy enough to survive winter. One of my favorite greens is that of the common pansy. Pansies are often grown all winter and, like their violet cousins, will bloom in late winter or spring. Although they contain salicylic acid they are easy on the stomach. They will thin the blood, but also are high in vitamin K and vitamin A. Pansy leaves are mild, and unlike those of violets, smooth so you don't have to cut them up so fine to avoid the hairy texture. Their flowers are a joy on a salad as well

A common weed to enjoy in winter is plantain. There are many different kinds, even Italian ones with huge leaves like chard. They are extremely healthy to eat, but some are a bit tough, so you must cut them up very fine. They are mild and grow, well, like weeds. They are also much better in winter than in late spring or summer. I like to walk past people's lawns and look at all the weeds that I know are good to eat. It is a joke on Americans that they spend so much money digging up these goodies only to throw them out.

Another weed every lawn owner hates which is better, (much better) in winter is the dandelion. Rather than take a risk of pollutants, gather these herbs where you know someone has not been spraying or away from roadsides. You can also grow your own. I've had the best experience with wild chicory, which has leaves like this but much larger. Chicory and dandelions are closely related to lettuce, but more bitter, a taste Americans have to get used to. Mixed in a salad with milder greens, dandelions are wonderful and full of iron, calcium and other vitamins and minerals.

Chickweed is another pernicious weed that is good to eat in winter and rich in Omega 3. The crucifers, the mint family, spinach and the lettuce family are all high in Omega 3. Be aware that Omega 3 will thin the blood. Chickweed does not come in a "nicer" domesticated form, but plant it and gather the small leaves for it is mild, delicious and great in salads. It grows like a weed during the cool, rainy months of the West Coast and well in warmer regions inland.



A favorite wild herb of the East is Claytonia virginica or Spring Beauty. I do not have experience with this weed, but it is here because I want to emphasize that it is important to know your plant families. An excellent place to learn more is from the database: "Plants for a Future." The reasons to get to know your families are many. One is that you can grow a native kind of plant that might do much better in your climate. There are many, many goosefoots and crucifers and chicories that grow wild in the West and can be substituted for the more tender European varieties. Some varieties are perennial and I am always in favor of perennials or re-seeding annuals that require less work in the garden. The other is that if you are forced or choose to wildcraft or are camping, you will know your families and be able to identify some mustard that might be good (but hot) or an edible wild lettuce. You will also learn that many plants that are good in winter are horrid when they go to seed in late spring and summer (like wild lettuce.)

Here is the Western equivalent of Spring Beauty. It is a mild, wonderful green that grows all winter on the Coast and can be grown in boxes or in the open in the milder regions inland. It is in the purslane family, which will let you know (if you know your families) that there are a few hot season relatives to round out your seasonal diet from the garden. Miner's lettuce, or Claytonia is mild enough to eat out of hand, juicy and very prolific. It also re-seeds under the right conditions and grows on damp, acid soil.

One of my favorite "weeds" is the plant rapunsel, made famous in the fairy tale. Campanula comes in a hundred varieties, many of which will survive winter. Campanulas and their close relatives Plactycons vary in taste from pungent to very mild. Some go dormant in winter, but many will survive and stay green up through zone 5. Some are very invasive, but others will stay in place and give you lovely flowers in late spring. Still others are grown for their roots, which can be as hot as radishes or very mild. They are largely carefree, grow under all kinds of conditions, and are good eating!

There are a number of herbs that do better in winter than in summer, like many of the leaf umbels: dill, parsley, sweet cicely, cilantro; the mints, some of which go dormant, but most of which sprout so early in spring to be winter plants; and all the onion family. Shepard Ogden talks about digging up winter leeks with a flame torch in sub-zero ice.

The thing about eating salads is that they are unappealing when it is cold outside. However, if you get used to eating them and do eat them, you will find greens to be very warming right after you eat them. If you like salads in summer, try winter salads, especially if you can grow and experiment with your own greens. Remember that eating them raw means that you must break down the cell walls, either by chewing thoroughly, chopping them very fine, or putting them in juices and smoothies. If you do not care for the taste of chlorophyll, mixing greens with something pungent will mask the taste, or mixing them into pestos will give you the nutrition, but cover the taste with garlic or basil.